Foodhoe's Foraging

Half Baked Pizza from Arizmendi Bakery

July 2, 2008 – 8:55 pm

3265 Lakeshore Avenue, Oakland, CA | (510) 268-8849

Yes, another pizza post… and something again quite different from both Porky’s Pizza Palace and Pizzaiolo. I love Arizmendi! They are a worker-owned cooperative based on the working model of the fabulous Cheese Board Collective in Berkeley, offering amazing breads, morning pastries and pizza, using good quality ingredients. Read this great article in the SF Chronicle by Janet Fletcher that describes its 30 year history and what it means to be a collective.

When I lived near Lake Merritt in Oakland, I would come here for the zampano, a squishy sourdough roll brushed with olive oil and dusted with parmesan cheese and red chili pepper flakes. They taste like heaven if you are lucky enough to get them hot out of the oven, but almost as good if you reheat them in the toaster oven. The Happy Consumptive has a post with pictures of these addictive rounds of bread here.

Along the back wall is a refrigerated unit stocked with artisan cheese, salads and some condiments that go very nicely with the baked goods. They sell pizzas too, half baked for you to finish at home.

The pizza of the day was with mushroom, onions, capers, mozzarella and goat cheeses, parsley parmesan, garlic and olive oil. These pizzas rarely have sauce but don’t need it with so many delicious toppings and I must point out that they only offer the one type of pizza for the day and it is always vegetarian. Here’s a link to the pizza schedule for the San Francisco branch, just to give you an idea of what to expect, however I’m quite sure each location has different toppings.

The cheese and toppings and crust are always well balanced and since there is no sauce, I have never had the topping slip off of the crust. It’s very substantial, but not heavy and definitely not greasy. These are good sized pizzas, about 16″ ($18), also available by the half ($9.50), slice ($2.75) and ($17) for the half baked.

The sourdough crust is considered to be thin and measures about a half inch in thickness, full of air bubbles but with a crunchy crisp bottom. Although these contain no meat, the savory toppings are so flavorful and prepared in such a way that they have density and texture lacking in most vegetarian pizzas and best of all, I have never had one that is waterlogged and soggy from the overuse of fresh vegetables. Sometimes the ingredients sound strange and avant-garde with nuts and goat cheese, but the simple flavor combinations never fail to satisfy in ways never imagined by the big chains.

They published a cookbook that I of course purchased and have yet to make anything from. This is another definite YES!! you must try this if you have never been! And besides the pizza, there are the zampanos, and the gigantic crumpets and sweets and pastries and more… This location rated 4.5 stars with 240+ reviews on yelp.com.

By foodhoe | Posted in east bay, foodhoe's favorite, incredible, oakland, pizza, quick and good | Tagged arizmendi, cheese board collective oakland, half-baked pizza | Comments (3)

Wood-Fired Pizza at Pizzaiolo, Oakland

June 30, 2008 – 8:46 pm

5008 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA 94609 TEL: (510) 652-4888 | website

Porky’s Pizza Palace one day, Pizzaiolo the next. Two very different types of pizza parlors, each catering to a specific clientele, yet both are family oriented and kid-friendly. Porky’s is in my neighborhood and Pizzaiolo is not; however, I have walked by Pizzaiolo without really seeing it because it has such a very discreet sign which is tucked in the lower corner of the window-sill if you look hard enough. It’s in the Temescal district of Oakland, next door to Dona Tomas and a few doors down from Bakesale Bettys which had ironing boards set up as funky tables lining the sidewalk.

According to their website, they buy only locally grown, organic, seasonal meat and produce whenever possible and change the menu every day to reflect the ingredients in their freshest most beautiful form. The founder and chef, is an alumni of the revered temple of Chez Panisse and lives with his family in the apartment above the restaurant. He explains that one life is much easier to live than two and that with that merging, his children are learning how to live in the world by watching the layers of human interaction that happens all around them and so I am forced, everyday, to live with a level of integrity and integration that is hard to come by in this day and age. I admit that I like this way of thinking.

The main dining room is bright and small but seems spacious with wooden booths along the wall and towards the back there’s an area where a larger group can fit and some outside seating in the back that was not available. There is a counter where you can sit and watch the kitchen action while enjoying your pizza.

They post the menu daily on the website, with the following caveat: The online menu is updated just before our doors open. In-house menu may differ from online menu. The menus are displayed in the window using a simple technology of rubber suction cup mounted hooks.

They dropped off a chilled bottle of water (without asking if we wanted one with a pedigree) and a plate of bread, which was like a small meteor that had landed from the heavens above. It had a thick chewy crust with an ethereal soft billowy tangy filling. Top that off with butter and I was in a state of bliss.

From the Antipasti section we split the Frisée and green bean salad with cooked egg and housemade pancetta (10). The pancetta was crisp and added just the right amount of salty smokiness. I liked the chopped hard cooked egg as it spread out and distributed its eggy flavor in a very satisfying manner - much easier to eat than the usual poached egg!

I am glad that we ordered the Potato Gnocchi with Pork Sugo (14) which was lip smacking good. The meat fell apart in the rich savory sauce and melted in my mouth along with the marshmallowy light and fluffy gnocchi.

The tangy cheese and fresh herbs brightened up the flavors.

We had the Margherita Pizze ($13) with sausage ($3) and wild arugula ($4). It’s the perfect pizza to split, especially with the other dishes and is the delectably thin but chewy Neopolitan-style crust.

The wood-fired pizza is a sensory experience. The crust is satisfyiing at so many levels. It has the soft yeasty bread moments, crisp and charred edges here and there, areas of perfectly golden brown and chewy toasty textures against a zesty tomato sauce with a spiderweb thin network of melted cheese spanning the surface. The meaty bits of sausage were strewn about in artfully restrained abandon and we rearranged the peppery greens to cover the surface uniformly.

I found the crust to be very delicious all the way out to the ends. Notice the sparkling crystals of salt which adds a burst of flavor along the at times charred perimeter. No need for ranch dressing to render these bits palatable…

We split a few things from the dessert menu, these were Candied Orange Cornmeal Biscotti (3)

We asked for one Blossom Bluff White Nectarine Sorbet (7.5), and one Swanton Farm Strawberry Ice Cream (7.5), but we received only the nectarine sorbet (one can only hope that for $7.50 you get two scoops). And if the serving was only one scoop, then they mistakenly gave us two of the sorbet but by that point in the meal I was really too stuffed to eat it, let alone complain.

Yes, it was damn good. Yes, you should go there and read the website too! I feel that I know Chef Hallowell now after perusing their site, especially his rants page. Hmmm, perhaps a blog would be a better format, a little bit of give and take and less of the taking the podium. Since eating there I have checked the menu as it changes daily and am tempted to return soon to try everything.

By foodhoe | Posted in east bay, incredible, northern california, oakland, organic/sustainable | Tagged oakland, pizzaiolo, Temescal | Comments (4)

Porky’s Pizza Palace, San Leandro

June 29, 2008 – 8:16 pm

1221 Manor Blvd, San Leandro, CA 510-357-4323 | website

I was trying to take a picture out front when a friendly fellow came up to me wearing an enormous gold crucifix told me that he was a video photographer and that the best shot was from across the street. I believe he was right. My co-worker Jimmy told me about this place a while back. He is a fellow east bay dweller with a keen interest in the mid-century lifestyle and culture and so it stands to reason that he came across this old fashioned, family owned pizza parlor that has been at the same location since 1963.

It’s got the mom and pop feel about it which is in great evidence by the numerous trophies and plaques displayed on the walls. This is the place where families with kids go to have dinner after baseball practice and there were packs of marauding young children tearing around in a sugar-induced frenzy.

It’s definitely got a sports orientation with a 10 ft high-def Giant screen TV along with four hi-def monitor TVs where you can watch Bay Area Sports Channels. The noise level was pretty high the night we visited, which was a Thursday because we really wanted to see the famous Oakland Banjo Band, which performs weekly between 7:30 - 9:30.

There were a few long tables set aside in the back for the band and we watched them arrive carrying a variety of instruments, including many banjo cases, a tuba, a metal washtub and wooden washboard percussion section. As you can see most of the players were white haired, or bald, although I did see one young woman walk by. Their groupies were all seated up close, some of them in wheelchairs, one was sporting an oxygen tank. I was expecting rousing polka music or toe tapping jigs, but I must have gotten accordian mixed up with banjo. They played some slow moving old tunes like Ain’t She Sweet, It’s Only a Paper Moon, Let Me Call You Sweetheart to a very enthusiastic audience.

OK, onto the food. They have the old-school pizza parlor format, where you go to the counter and place your order for food at the first counter, then buy your sodas and beers at the bar a few steps to the left. They call your name when your pizza is ready and you have to go pick it up at the counter. They serve 15 beers & ales on tap featuring San Leandro’s own Drake’s Brewing Ales.

The small size soda is very small, it’s about half the normal size you expect. That’s a medium size next to it.

This is the Caesar Salad ($3.69), which was mostly iceburg lettuce on top of some chopped romaine and a handful of boxed croutons. It was served piled high in the classic flat floral shaped glass plate that barely holds everything and the shallow sides makes it very difficult to try to mix the salad dressing in, which is a shame because the dressing was thick and creamy and it no doubt would have been much better tossed in a big bowl first before serving if you ask me…

Mr. K and our friend’s 3 year old daughter Maya shared a 10-inch Mini Golden Cheese Pizza ($7.25). The menu said that everything is prepared fresh daily and that the pizzas begin with hand thrown dough and are prepared to order. I have to admit that I did take a peek to see what the Yelpers had to say, and this has to be one of the top rated restaurants in San Leandro weighing in with 37 reviews! I think that a lot of people grew up eating here and have fond childhood memories of the pizza here and it is a very fine representation of the classic American style pizza.

We got a 16″ Giant (14 slices) with mushrooms, half pepperoni and half sausage for about $20.

When you try to pull off a piece from the round, the topping comes off, cheese and all. I scored a piece that had both sausage and pepperoni. Notice that they pass out paper plates and you have to pick up your own silverware at the counter. I watched as Maya worked her way eating the pizza dough first which ended up being a handful of warm stringy cheese and she caught my eye and mentioned that she just loves cheese as she chomped her way through it.

I had to laugh because one of the yelp comments was Get some ranch though…the crust is fantastic with ranch. and so I did obediently go up and ask for a thing of ranch and was charged 50 cents. Mr. K looked on with dismay as I reached over and took up his pile of discarded crust and dunked it in. Mmmmm, pure trashy bliss… yes please, pardon me while I dunk my greasy pizza into the MSG laden sour cream-mayonnaise concoction!

We liked the pizza just fine, it’s a well made old-school style pizza that we all grew up eating and the atmosphere is very inviting and casual.

By foodhoe | Posted in brilliant | Tagged oakland banjo orchestra, porky's pizza palace, san leandro | Comments (3)

Breads of India, Walnut Creek

June 28, 2008 – 9:54 am

1358 Main Street, Walnut Creek, CA | 925.256.7684 | website

Over the years I have heard alot of chatter about Breads of India. When they first opened in Berkeley, everyone was raving about how the chef showcased an impressive variety of Indian breads to accompany a menu of entrees made with organic or free-range local meats which changes daily. Berkeley is home to a great many Indian (they really offer an excellent array of cuisine from just about everywhere), but this was one of the first to market the fact that they use local and organic ingredients and then there were those breads… The chef has an impressive repertoire of 100 plus seasonal dishes that he rotates through, offering five dishes that change daily that include recommendations on the specific breads that complement each dish, along with a few standards that are always on the menu.

The location in Walnut Creek has been open since 2004 and has a brightly colored, modern interior with a patio in front for dining al fresco. We were in the middle of a blazing heat wave and decided to sit inside with the air conditioning. We started with an appetizer of Papadum, the baked lentil flour cracker, which was served with the sweet-tart tamarind chutney along with a spicy green one that tasted of cilantro and mint. I love the light delicate texture and the nutty flavor and especially the burst of flavor you get when you bite into a cumin seed.

We had a small bowl of Yogurt Raita that had grated cucumber, toasted cumin and fresh herbs. The cool creamy dairy can help chill out my tastebuds if the spices get out of hand, and the tangy flavor of the yogurt complements just about everything…

We ordered two plain Naan breads which were more than we could manage between three hungry people. They were gently steaming as we pulled off soft chewy pieces to dunk into the delicious sauces.

Tandoori Salmon (13.95), marinated overnight and baked in a Tandoori clay oven. The menu describes in great detail all of the ingredients that are in the marinade - fresh garlic, ginger, red onion, roasted cumin powder, paprika, lemon juice, malt vinegar, rock salt, home made yoghurt and their own garam masala blend. It was delicious and very colorful served over thinly sliced bright red and green cabbage. The fish had some very nice crisped edges on the outside, but was a little bit overdone and dry.

It was served with basmati rice and another crispy papadum, some limp organic spring mix topped with mint chutney, and daal soup.

Chicken Tikka Masala (11.95) is of Anglo-Indian origin and is one of the most popular restaurant dishes being served in England today. I don’t think it has achieved the same status in the states, but our server told us it’s one of their most popular. The breast pieces are marinated overnight, then baked in the clay oven to impart the distinct smokey flavor, then added to a specially prepared masala gravy of cashew paste, tomatoes, red onions, garlic, ginger, saffron, cardamoms, white pepper and cumin, cloves, cinnamon, star anise powder. Whew, their menu actually lists all of this out… It is served with Basmati rice, salad and papadum.

There was plenty of the masala gravy to go around and we poured some over the dry salmon, which I suppose made it Salmon Tikka Masala of sorts…

We decided to try one of the vegetarian dishes, Sabzi Hyderabadi (7.95), vegetables flavored with garlic, ginger, fenugreek, mustard and onion seeds. The culinary history of Hyderabad dates back 400 years and is famous for the spectacular way its aristocracy entertained, here’s an interesting link here. It was a zesty stew of potato, cauliflower, green beans, and carrots that was definitely the spiciest dish of the meal. Good thing we had that yogurt raita. It was also served with basmatic rice and salad. All of the rice came with a blob of tomato chutney that was cool and tart.

We ordered with the idea that we would be eating family style, which seemed to disturb our server, as the plates were all very large and took up the entire table and when we asked for extra plates to share with, he looked at us like we were from another planet. Well, perhaps we were considering that my mother was eating with chopsticks that she always has ready in her purse and I seemed to keep throwing silverware off the table… After all that, I feel that I am better suited going to the Indian buffet-style places because I like putting together my own plate of things that look good. I understand that buffet food has been sitting around, but aside from my experiences at Curry Corner in Hayward and Dosa Restaurant in the city, I haven’t been able to discern a big difference between made to order and buffet food sitting around in a chafing dish!

By foodhoe | Posted in east bay, indian, walnut creek, worthy | Tagged breads of india, walnut creek | Comments (0)

Nalida Thai Kitchen, Walnut Creek

June 27, 2008 – 10:47 am

1250 Newell Ave., Ste J, Walnut Creek, CA 94596 (925) 935-9335 | closed Sundays

I received a recommendation a while ago from Mary-Anne, who is the Thai food editor of Bellaonline to try this place out, it is is hidden away in a little shopping center by Tuesday Morning across from Whole Foods. I met my parents here on a weekday for lunch and I got slightly turned around and kept driving around looking in the wrong strip mall. Eventually I got there, I just don’t know the far reaches of Walnut Creek very well… and was happy to see that there is plenty of parking in the lot outside.

What caught my attention in Mary-Anne’s comments were that the owner/chef makes all of her sauces and curry pastes fresh everyday and Hold the sugar excepting a touch for balance. Salty-sour-sweet-spicey + bitter in Isan foods. This all sounds good to me! The restaurant interior is small and cozy with brightly painted walls, beautiful hanging textiles and folk art decorating the walls. We got there before the lunch rush, the level of which always surprises me on a weekday out in the Creek.

We started with a light but flavorful broth with tender vegetables and tofu. It was delicious, I would have been happy with a much bigger bowl…

I seem to always order Pad See Ew, but we just love the plump and chewy wide rice noodles coated with the garlicy sweet and salty glaze brightened up with the generous use of fish sauce. This version was tame and lacked any of the smoky caramelization or wok breath that can make this dish taste so much better. I never had this dish in Thailand but have sampled many versions in local restaurants, and while I don’t know that the wok breath is a prized characteristic of Thai cooking, I like it better when it happens. Aside from this, the dish was flavored very well with the requisite scrambled egg, crisp Chinese broccoli and shreds of chicken breast. We inhaled everything.

The Prawns in Red Curry was full of gigantic and fleshy prawns in a rich spicy curry sauce that was really good with the jasmine rice. It wasn’t too sweet and the vegetables were fresh tasting and were cooked perfectly - tender but with just the right amount of firmness.

The last entree was Chicken with Spicy Basil sauce was bursting with clean flavors that reminded me of the fresh and simple cooking I enjoyed at the Riverhouse restaurant and the Roadside Cafe near Chiang Mai. You can just imagine by looking at how the light is reflected off the dots of fat glittering on the surface of the sauce how intensely flavorful this dish was.

I had a craving for Mango with Sticky Rice, which looks deceptively plain but packs so much flavor. The mango was firm but creamy, perfectly ripe and still a bit tart which is delicious eaten in combination with the sticky rice that is cooked with coconut, sugar and salt and then topped with sesame seeds.

That rice was addictively sticky and the sesame seeds added nutty flavor and texture.

We ate everything in sight and were very content by the end of the meal. The serving sizes were on the small size, which I liked because we can order more dishes to try! Thanks Mary-Anne for the recommendation, we enjoyed it greatly and plan to visit soon.